3D Printing Revolution in Fashion: How Brands Are Transforming Design and Production

Written by Jet Thurmond

The fashion industry continues to evolve each day and the outside influence of technology affords more opportunity for innovation in what and how products are designed, marketed, and sold. Technology has moved hand sketching to digital illustrations in 2D and 3D formats.

The transformation reduces waste, cost, and speeds up the development process. It also opens doors of opportunity for marketing and improves the fit and functionality of products. 3D printing, also known as additive manufacturing, is no exception. 

3D printing allows the user to create a physical three-dimensional version of a virtual two-dimensional or three-dimensional design, usually created with Computer Aided Design (CAD) software.

This allows designers to check the garment feel, aesthetics, and functionality. There have been great advances in 3D printing systems in recent years and this has not gone unnoticed in the world of fashion. 

Innovative Uses of 3D Printing in Fashion

So, what can 3D printing be used for in the fashion industry? The most common use of 3D printers in fashion is for prototyping and tool-making.

In the design process, before a piece is ever released to the market, prototypes and concept models of a potential new item are generated. These prototypes are used to determine fit, functionality, and/or the accuracy of the design/pattern.

There is a significant amount of time in the already lengthy process that is dedicated to prototyping. Much of that time comes from the queueing required in sampling, actual sampling, and transportation.

While most choose to outsource prototype creation, it comes at a considerable investment of time and money. In-house 3D printing can shorten and enhance the process allowing a more complete design to be submitted to manufacturing partners significantly reducing the development time.

3D printing is also used to create accessories which will supplement other areas of the design. While the actual garment may need to be cut and sewn, accessories and trim like custom closures or embellishments, could be 3D printed. Certain jewelry items can also be 3D printed.

Camper shoe tests designs being produced by Sigmax 3D printers. Image via 3dprint.com

Customization and Made-To-Order

Brands can also use 3D printing for simpler customization. There is a new awareness stirring within the industry and among consumers about the importance of clothing being able to accommodate different consumer needs.

3D printing helps make this more possible. By using 3D printing technology to produce made-to-order clothing, the customer will be able to enjoy a completely personalized product to accommodate certain needs that may not be found otherwise on the market.

This could be particularly useful for customers seeking adaptive clothing who may need to accommodate for physical or sensory limitations when buying clothing.

In the world of footwear, the use of 3D printing has become second nature. Popular athletic wear brand Adidas has been using 3D printing for at least 10 years and recently released the 4DFWD Runner. This model has a 3D printed midsole that the brand claims is more precisely fine-tuned and is designed to increase runner performance.

This is one of the first examples of 3D printing scaled up for mass production rather than just being used in-house for prototypes or a limited run. Other footwear companies have used 3D printers for prototyping and creating models. 

However, much of the general population’s knowledge of 3D printing (or at least how it relates to fashion) comes from haute couture. Many designers have dipped their toes into the world of 3D printed couture and there have been some standouts over the years.

However, much of their work has been single-use creations for runway shows or to be worn by celebrities - more wearable art than traditional clothing. This type of use is less practical, but still very widely known. 

Harmonograph dress by ThreeASFOUR. Image via wikimedia.org

Material Choices

The array of materials available for use in 3D printing is not exactly expansive, there are still many more options than what originally was possible. The most common material used for fashion purposes that are compatible with 3D printers are plastics, but each plastic used has different purposes. 

ABS, or Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene, is strong, durable, and has very good heat resistance properties. With ABS and other types of 3D printing plastics, it is necessary to sand down the printed product, or add a finish to it to make it smooth. 

PLA, or Polylactic Acid, is more common in desktop 3D printing because it can be printed at low temperatures. It is also flexible like ABS, but its post-processing is much more manageable. PLA has a smoother end result, so it doesn’t go through an extensive finishing process before it can be used. 

TPU, Thermoplastic Polyurethane, is highly flexible, but still durable, making it much more advantageous to use in fashion design. TPE, Thermoplastic Elastomer, commonly called Filaflex, is similar, but is even more elastic, and is excellent for movement with the human body.

There are several brands that have been utilizing 3D printing since its early stages and continue to find new innovative usages. Other brands have picked it up more recently but have also found the best way to make this flexible tool work for them.

High Tech Hardware

Camper, a Spanish shoe company, is a perfect example. This company began using 3D printers to build in-house prototypes and concept models for their upcoming shoe collections. This sped up their development process by months, and substantially lowers costs as well. 

Louis Vuitton, a popular luxury handbag designer, has also begun heavily utilizing 3D printing in their early design stages. The brand uses 3D printed versions of gold-plated hardware in their prototypes, which can usually have a lead time of around two to three weeks.

Production runs are simpler after implementing this 3D printing technology, which has become a crucial part of their process. Louis Vuitton also uses 3D printers to create unique jigs and fixtures to manufacture their designs and uses 3D printed molds to shape the leather for their bags. Haute couture has also seen extensive use of this technology. 

Bottom: Louis Vuitton strap prototype with 3D printed hardware; Top: Finalized strap with metal hardware. Image via matterhackers.com

ThreeASFOUR was founded in 2005 by three transnational designers, Gabriel Asfour, Angela Donhauser, and Adi Gil. Their focus on unity and geometry in their couture collections has made them pioneers in the world of 3D printing technology, using it for several of their collections since the brand’s inception.

For example, the Pangolin dress was created with 3D printing technology in collaboration with architect Travis Fitch, and the result is absolutely breathtaking. ThreeASFOUR’s work showcases the untapped potential of 3D printing technology in fashion. 

Eco Friendly Innovation

ZER Collective, a Spanish fashion brand, uses 3D printing for sustainable end goals. In a collection for Mercedes Benz Madrid Fashion Week, 12 of the outfits on the runway were formed from mostly 3D printed parts. 

The brand uses this technology to speed up their design processes by combining different fabrics of varying weights or textures together in a simpler way and to reduce production waste. By digitizing their patterns, they can work to produce only the necessary amount of fabric.

This reduced their waste to almost zero and they continue this nearly waste-free process by recycling the materials from used garments by melting it back down and extruding it into a filament that can then be printed again. 

ZER Collective shirt with 3D printed details, made with TPU for flexibility. Image via bcn3d.com

Environmental and Fiscal Benefits

The manufacturing process becomes more sustainable when using 3D printing for prototypes and trim. The prototypes can likely be melted down for the material to be used again resulting in less waste. Additionally, fewer attempts are needed to create a satisfactory product due to increased precision.

Rapid prototyping is another benefit. Time and money that are wasted on failed product models or prototypes can be reduced through the use of 3D printing technology, as the products can be tested more quickly and the production process is more efficient.

These benefits allow the designer space to take risks, allowing for outside-the-box thinking and the ability to re-imagine what is considered possible. The ability to quickly assess the viability of their designs creates a freer creative space. 

Room For Improvement

However, there are still some drawbacks. Currently, there is no readily-available technology that allows for large-scale production of 3D printed garments. While costs are lower for small-scale production, large-scale production is cost-prohibitive at present.

There are also limited materials available for use. While synthetic materials like polyester are common in fashion, the materials that are currently available for use in 3D printing are plastics which require more imagination and creativity to provide breathable and comfortable garments.

Natural fibers are incompatible with 3D printing. The lack of end-user recycling is also a drawback. While the manufacturer can reuse materials, after the material leaves the factory the consumer will not be able to easily recycle their product.

The Foliage, a 3D printed dress by Iris van Herpen and TU Delft scientists. Image via irisvanherpen.com 

Overall, 3D printing has come a long way in a short time. The technology has become something that is truly fascinating as its versatility allows for multiple facets of the industry to make use of it. Making what was once impossible possible.

Whether it is used in the early stages of the design process or for runway shows, it serves as a reminder that there are always areas that can improve through new ideas and innovative thinking.