Lingerie Construction Essentials

Written by Isa Perez

Lingerie can make you feel sexy, seductive, comfortable, or dowdy, depending on the quality, style, and fit. Have you designed the perfect intimate apparel but are unsure how to construct it? Fashion Index has the resources to turn your dream into a reality. 

Lingerie has specific construction methods that aren’t used for all apparel. A simple pair of underwear or a bra uses special needles, threads, and stitches that are unnecessary on a typical garment. Having the proper tools will produce the best results. Being prepared will jump-start creating your beautiful pieces!

Need-to-knows for lingerie construction; types of:

• Needles
• Thread
• Stitches

Needles

There are many sewing machine needle varieties. All sewing machine needles are compatible across brands of domestic sewing machines. You can use some needles with many fabric types while others are specialized. The most common needle brands are Organ and Schmetz, but some sewing machines have brand-specific needles. 

The differences between needles are at the needle's point and the scarf. A scarf is an indent on the lower back side of the needle. The scarf allows the needle to grab the thread from the bobbin and create a proper stitch. Using the wrong needle will result in thread breaking. 

Image via Wikipedia

Needles for lingerie construction are:

• Universal

  Slightly rounded tip, generally for woven fabric, synthetics, and sturdy knits. In lingerie, it is used for sewing plush underwire channeling and hook and eyes at the end of the project. Depending on how fine your fabric is, sizes 80/12 or 90/14 are generally used.

• Stretch

  Helpful for: lace, stretch mesh, picot plush elastic, strap elastic, or anything with spandex/lycra. When sewing with fine or one-ply fabric, we recommend using a 70/10 needle. When working with elastic or multiple layers of fabric, use an 80/12 needle. 

• Mircotex/Sharp

  Excellent for stretchy fabric; produces fewer skipped stitches. Like other needles, use a 70/10 for delicate or one-ply fabrics and 80/12 for elastic or multi-ply materials. Microtex is helpful for sewing Powernet, which may require 90/14 needles.

Thread

As with needles, each type of thread has specific uses. It is crucial to match the thread's weight to the fabric's weight. Some thread types cost more than others, but the result is worth the price difference.

Image via Eysan Fabrics

Thread Construction

Thread can be constructed in different ways that will change the way the thread works with your fabric and sewing machine. Brands may have several different thread constructions in a single line. All natural fiber (except silk) threads are constructed with staple yarn and quality is determined by staple length. Synthetic materials can be staple yarn or filament.

Image via Sewing Parts Online

• Spun

  Made by spinning natural and/or synthetic fibers (polyester, rayon, or nylon) that are then twisted together. These threads are 2 to 3 ply depending on the size. This is a less expensive option that is readily available around the world. However, a spun thread is not as strong as corespun thread.

• Corespun

  Made by wrapping staple yarns of polyester and/or cotton around a filament bundle of polyester fibers. This type of thread provides more strength and resistance, fabric ply security, and abrasion resistance. It is strong and will provide a softer feel with a matte finish.

Left: Monofilament via Quilting Digest; Right: Filament via Indian Laces and Fabrics

• Monofilament

  Made out of a single continuous nylon or polyester filament that resembles a fishing line. It is very strong thread and can be used on light fabrics to secure decorative details. Unlike other polyester threads, this should not go on a bobbin. The sewing machine tension must be loosened when using this type of thread to prevent breakages. 

• Filament

  Made with several continuous strands of synthetic material or silk that are twisted together. They are used with a wide range of fabric. Filament is a shiny, and therefore slippery, thread. They are stronger than staple yarns due to the continuous strands. 

Thread Types

Image via Wooly, Superior, Polyester, and Gutermann

• Wooly Nylon or Wooly Polyester

Specially designed to stretch and is excellent in lingerie and stretch knit fabrics due to its springy and spongy characteristics. Wooly nylon thread is also used in sergers on the lower loopers. It creates soft, airy seams against the skin. 

• Superior Threads Brand- Bottom Line Thread (Polyester)

Strongly recommended for bra construction, applique, and binding. It is lint-free, lightweight, and blends in with similar colored fabrics. There are 55 colors to choose from. 

• Polyester

Polyester has more give than cotton but is not as stretchy as some fabrics used in lingerie. The fabric’s stretch will determine if the polyester thread is the right choice. This thread can be used for applique and bra details. 

• Gütermann MARA 150 Fine Thread

Strong, lightweight poly-wrapped poly-core sewing threads for fine seams, serging, or overlock machines. It is recommended for silks and lingerie. It is ideal for topstitching on bra caps for less bulk. These lightweight threads have a silk-like shine for smooth stitches.

Stitches

There are several types of stitches to seal and create long-lasting garments for your customer. 

Stability and Finishing 

Images via Foxsew, Artisan Stitch, Craftsy, and Heirloom Creations

• Lockstitch/Straight stitch

Commonly used with woven fabrics, seaming, hems, and decorative details. This should not be used when finishing stretch fabrics. Doing so will cause tension on the thread, fraying or breaking it. 

• Overlock/serge stitch

Crucial for stretch fabric as it moves with the material without breaking. You can vary the number of threads and stitch width. The wooly thread will come in handy with overlock stitches. 

• Babylock

A narrower overlock stitch is used to hem thin or fine fabrics like silk for a ‘Fluted’ finish. 

• Coverlock/Coverstitch

This versatile stitch utilizes a twin needle that allows stretch and prevents hem fraying. The outside of the garment will have a plain double stitch, while the interior looks like an overlock. This stitch can stabilize seams on athletic wear, elastic trims, and fold-over elastic. Also, great with the wooly thread! 

Attaching Elastic

Image via anicka.design

• Zig zag

Easily identified by /\/\/\/\ appearance and commonly used for elastic trims and appliques. It allows the fabric to stretch and prevents raw edges from fraying. Longer/wider stitches risk catching and breaking.

• Three-point zig zag

Commonly used to apply elastic tapes to lingerie like bra finishing. It is similar to the regular zig zag, but each diagonal has three stitches instead of one. This allows for wider zig zags without threads catching or breaking.

Stability/Securing Elements on Bras

• Twin Needle Lockstitch 

Primarily used on sewing machines with two bobbins and two needles resulting in two parallel rows of stitches. It can also be done with a single needle machine one side at a time. This stitch is great when sewing seam tapes, underwire, and boning channels. 

• Bartack

An essential part of reinforcing your garment. Stitched perpendicular to main seams, it is used on the stress points for garment stability. Some machines will not provide this stitch, but a tight narrow zig-zag can replicate this!

Every project is most straightforward when you use the right tool for the job. This list of lingerie construction essentials will help you achieve your desired look while creating a lasting and beautiful piece of lingerie.

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