The Impact of Denim and How Sustainable Manufacturing is Changing the Industry

Written by Tirsa Parrish & Isa Perez

The long-time fashion staple, denim, is a significant component of the fashion industry with a market value of approximately $23.22 billion U.S.D. in 2022. The huge demand and continued rising costs cause buyers and manufacturers to look for effective cost reduction when selecting where and how to manufacture products.

Traditionally, there has been little consideration of how these decisions affect the environment, the employees, or the people who live in the area where the denim is manufactured. Simply put, denim has not been a sustainable product.

Denim Manufacturing: An Unhealthy Past

As of 2021, fashion is one of the top 5 polluting industries. Denim manufacturing creates a sizable amount of that pollution.

One of the largest issues in denim production is the excessive use of water. Water usage occurs at almost all stages of production. Beyond the amount used for production, vast amounts of water are required when growing cotton. It can take up to 1,000. gallons of water to produce 1 pound of cotton.

In perspective, a pair of men's jeans has about 1.5 pounds of cotton, which equates to 1,500 gallons. Compounding the problem, cotton is often grown in water-scarce regions. Using more efficient irrigation methods and growing cotton in less arid environments can save millions of gallons of water. 

Denim Water Needs

Most water in denim production is used in the thread or fabric dyeing process. After dyeing, the threads are then rinsed with water and additional water is used with a solvent to coat the denim fabric to prevent shrinkage or to achieve a specific finish. 

Denim is repeatedly treated and washed with various chemicals to produce the desired softness, fade, and texture. Stone or acid-washed finishes use even more water.

As intensive as the manufacturing process is, it only accounts for about a tenth of the water consumed in the entire life cycle of a pair of jeans; cotton cultivation and consumer care make up the largest portion of water consumption. From production to wear and washing by consumers, one pair of jeans could use as much as 2,900 gallons of water.

Water contaminated with dyes or solvents legally cannot be disposed of into a municipal water system in the US. This wastewater must go through an extensive purification process.

Denim Manufacturing Contaminating Environments

However, when denim is manufactured in countries with less strict environment regulations or with less enforcement of environmental laws, some companies save the time and money needed for purification and dump their waste water into the surrounding rivers, streams, and lakes. This has a detrimental impact on the environment and the people that live and work near (or downstream) from the dumping site. 

In addition to high water usage and contaminated wastewater there are additional negative environmental and human costs of denim production. These include:  

• Toxins from pesticides
• Dyeing Process contaminants
• Energy Usage
• Work Conditions

Image of Garment Dyeing in China via NRDC

Toxins in Denim Manufacturing

Pesticides and fertilizers are used in traditional cotton growing methods. Natural Indigo has nearly been replaced by chemical dyes used to achieve the blue color of jeans. Distressed finishes like acid wash require additional chemicals.

Most denim manufacturing is done in developing nations where labor is cheaper and fewer environmental regulations are in place. Many mills and factories are not required to have processes to clean the water or filter the air in these areas. 

Demin Dyeing Process

The traditional denim dyeing process utilizes synthetic dyes requiring high water use and toxins that are wasteful and dangerous to the factory's surrounding environment and workers. “Denim mills and chemical manufacturers are increasingly replacing these methods with new water saving dyes, waterless or near-waterless processes or manufacturing facilities equipped with technology to reduce water consumption.”

For example, Kaltex has a fabric collection called Aqueduct, that uses water-saving practices such as a dyeing system that eliminates rinsing in fabric production. Calik Denim developed a method called D-Clear technology that uses "40 percent less water in the indigo dyeing process and 83 percent less water during finishing, and reduces the volume of chemicals used per meter [of fabric] by 94 percent."

Additionally, the stone washed look can now be achieved with the use of ozone gas. Such innovations will continue to reduce the total amount of water used and reduce contaminated wastewater.   

Energy Use

Factories can reduce their environmental impact in several ways. Most denim is produced in countries where coal is still a common source to generate electricity. With advancements in technology, many factories are transitioning to high-efficiency machinery that requires less energy.

Electricity usage in the drying process can be nearly eliminated by air drying. Jeans can be mostly dried with air recycled from hot machinery in the factory. Only a brief spin in a commercial dryer is required. Another positive step is shifting from fossil fuels to solar or other renewable energy sources to reduce carbon emissions. 

Work Conditions 

A common problem in the global textile market is unsafe work conditions. Many facilities have old machinery that requires workers to do labor-intensive and tedious jobs that can be dangerous and are tiring on the body.

Safer and More Sustainable Methods

Automation, robotics, AI systems, and other new technologies are available to transition people out of dangerous jobs. Factories implementing these advances can teach and then transition workers to maintain and run the machinery.

There is technology available for tasks such as cutting, simple sewing, and hanger systems. This provides a safer working environment for the employee and efficiency for factories. 

With increased consumer awareness driven by documentaries like True Cost, consumers continue to push textile manufacturers to develop and use sustainable products and manufacturing processes. There are many ways to make environmentally friendly denim.

Organic Cotton

Organic cotton is grown without pesticides or dangerous fertilizers. Wool denim gives you the wicking features of wool, is sustainable, and is sold by brands such as Guess. Closed systems in the dye and solvent treatment reduce water usage by reusing water. Recycling denim reduces the amount of raw material needed. Treating wastewater to remove contaminants reduces pollution and the environmental and human impact. 

According to an EDIT denim trend report, around 39% of the production in the denim market has become more sustainable. To be considered in this category a factory/brand has to improve the product's life cycle, use sustainable raw materials, have responsible transportation, and ensure that items can be repaired and recycled.

The goal is to consider the impact on the planet and to adjust and offset previous practices. A few brands that have taken steps to reduce water consumption by integrating water-saving measures into their production include Levi, Patagonia and Eileen Fisher. 

Brands with decreased water and chemical usage are highly praised, but the production factories are the true contributor to the change in the industry. They are able to leverage growers to improve irrigation methods and make a significant impact in water reduction.

Two of the leading factories in this movement are Saitex and Atlantic Mills Co.

Left: Image of Saitex Factory via Fashionista; Right: Image of AMC via insidefashionlive.net

They are both factories with a commitment to greener denim production. They commit to: 

• Using recycled water
• Air-drying
• Equality and a living-wage salary for their employees
• Utilizing robotics for harder/harmful jobs

The commitment to sustainable production has been recognized by brands in many countries. This includes recognition for the Director, Armin Sachathep, of Atlantic Mills Co. Sachathep was recognized by APAC Enterupuer for his work in sustainability in the denim industry.

The effort these two factories display shows it is possible to produce denim more sustainably.  

The modern consumer is now conscientiously seeking products from companies making strides in sustainability and reducing their environmental and human impact. Factories like Saitex and Atlantic Mills Co. are a few of the leaders making that a reality. Their commitment creates a positive and greener future for this section of the industry.