How To Create An Apparel Tech Pack, Part 10: Understanding the Terminology

Written by Tirsa Parrish•Last Updated: July 27, 2026

Many phrases and industry shorthand are used when creating an apparel tech pack or when talking with suppliers and manufacturers for your garment. We’ve put together a list of common terms for you to reference at a glance.

Tech pack terminology refers to the standardized terms, abbreviations, and codes used across apparel design, patternmaking, and manufacturing to communicate garment specifications between brands and factories.

Common Terminology

Bill of Materials (BOM)

A comprehensive list of every material needed to produce the garment, including fabrics, trims, labels, and packaging components

Colorways

The specific color variations of a style, including fabric, thread, and trims colors

Fit Reference

A fit reference (or fit reference sample) is a physical garment used as a baseline that patternmakers and factories compare new samples against to evaluate fit

Gauge (GG)

Gauge (GG) is the number of stitches per inch in knitted fabric; lower gauge numbers produce chunkier knits, and higher gauge numbers produce finer knits

Graded Specification Sheet (Spec Sheet)

A table of measurements for size, showing how the garment should change in proportion

Grading

The process of resizing a base garment pattern into a full size range (e.g. S, M, L, XL)

Mockup

Flat, 2D visual representation of a garment used to show placement for graphics, logos, or design elements

Needle Spacing

Needle spacing refers to the distance between needles on a knitting machine, which is measured in gauge and determines how fine or coarse the resulting knit fabric will be

Rendering

Photorealistic or 3D representation of garments, often created with CAD tools, used for representation or visual tools

Point of Measurement (POM)

Specific locations on the garment where measurements are taken, illustrated with callouts on a flat sketch

Spec Sheet

A table of measurements for size, showing how the garment should change in proportion

Stitch Type

The ISO or common stitch code (e.g. 301 lockstitch) used to indicate which stitching technique is required at each seam

Tech Pack (Technical Package)

A multi-page document detailing every aspect of a garment’s design, materials, construction, sizing, and packaging; used by manufacturers to produce the item accurately

Tolerance

Tolerance is the acceptable range of variance allowed from a specified measurement on a garment, beyond which the finished product may be rejected by quality control. For example, a bust width of 18”± ¼”

Technical Design Sketch (Flat Sketch, Technical Flat)

Detailed, black-and white vector drawings that clearly outline the garment’s design from multiple views, without any stylization

Technical Package

A multi-page document detailing every aspect of a garment’s design, materials, construction, sizing, and packaging; used by manufacturers to produce the item accurately

✂️ Industry Shorthand & Abbreviations

Abbreviation	Term	Description
1GG / 16GG	Gauge	In knitting, stitches per inch
AH	Armhole	POM location
ASTM	American Society for Testing and Materials	Standards organization used in the fabric and testing specs
BOM	Bill of Materials	See above
CAD	Computer-Aided Design	Digital design and patternmaking tool
CB	Center Back	POM location
CF	Center Front	POM location
COO	Country of Origin	Where the garment is manufactured
DNTS	Double Needle Topstitch	Often used on hems or decorative seams
DTC	Direct to Consumer	Sales model without intermediaries
DTM	Dyed to Match	Indicates trims or thread should match fabric color
FDS	Fabric Data Sheet	Details on fabric composition, weight, and properties
GG	Gauge	See above
HPS	High Point Shoulder	POM location
ISO	International Organization for Standardization	Governs global standards for stitch types, fabric testing, and product specs
MOQ	Minimum Order Quantity	Factory production minimum required per style or color
POM	Point of Measurement	See above
RN#	Registration Number	U.S. business ID for textile labeling
SA	Seam Allowance	Extra fabric beyond the stitching line
SPI	Stitches Per Inch	Stitch density; affects seam durability
SS	Side Seam	POM location