How To Create An Apparel Tech Pack, Part 10: Understanding the Terminology

Many phrases and industry shorthand are used when creating an apparel tech pack or when talking with suppliers and manufacturers for your garment. We’ve put together a list of common terms for you to reference at a glance. 

Common Terminology

Bill of Materials (BOM)

A comprehensive list of every material needed to produce the garment, including fabrics, trims, labels, and packaging components

Colorways

The specific color variations of a style, including fabric, thread, and trims colors

Fit Reference

A sample garment or previous style provided to manufacturers to guide fit expectations

Gauge (GG)

The number of stitches per inch in knitted fabric. Lower numbers = chunkier knits; higher numbers = finer knits

Graded Specification Sheet (Spec Sheet)

A table of measurements for size, showing how the garment should change in proportion

Grading

The process of resizing a base garment pattern into a full size range (e.g. S, M, L, XL)

Mockup

Flat, 2D visual representation of a garment used to show placement for graphics, logos, or design elements

Needle Spacing

The distance between needles used in multi-needle stitching, often referenced for decorative or structural stitching

Rendering

Photorealistic or 3D representation of garments, often created with CAD tools, used for representation or visual tools

Point of Measurement (POM)

Specific locations on the garment where measurements are taken, illustrated with callouts on a flat sketch

Spec Sheet

See Graded Specification Sheet

Stitch Type

The ISO or common stitch code (e.g. 301 lockstitch) used to indicate which stitching technique is required at each seam

Tech Pack (Technical Package)

A multi-page document detailing every aspect of a garment’s design, materials, construction, sizing, and packaging; used by manufacturers to produce the item accurately

Tolerance

The acceptable range for variation for measurement. For example, a bust width of 18”± ¼”

Technical Design Sketch (Flat Sketch, Technical Flat)

Detailed, black-and white vector drawings that clearly outline the garment’s design from multiple views, without any stylization

Technical Package

See Tech Pack

✂️ Industry Shorthand & Abbreviations

Abbreviation

Term

Description

1GG / 16GG

Gauge

In knitting, stitches per inch

AH

Armhole

POM location

ASTM

American Society for Testing and Materials

Standards organization used in the fabric and testing specs

BOM

Bill of Materials

See above

CAD

Computer-Aided Design

Digital design and patternmaking tool

CB

Center Back

POM location

CF

Center Front

POM location

COO

Country of Origin

Where the garment is manufactured

DNTS

Double Needle Topstitch

Often used on hems or decorative seams

DTC

Direct to Consumer

Sales model without intermediaries

DTM

Dyed to Match

Indicates trims or thread should match fabric color

FDS

Fabric Data Sheet

Details on fabric composition, weight, and properties

GG

Gauge

See above

HPS

High Point Shoulder

POM location

ISO

International Standards Organization

Governs global standards for stitch types, fabric testing, and product specs

MOQ

Minimum Order Quantity

Factory production minimum required per style or color

POM

Point of Measurement

See above

RN#

Registration Number

U.S. business ID for textile labeling

SA

Seam Allowance

Extra fabric beyond the stitching line

SPI

Stitches Per Inch

Stitch density; affects seam durability

SS

Side Seam

POM location

 

This article completes our blog series, How to Create an Apparel Tech Pack. Other articles in this series are:

 

Part 1: Cover Page Explained

Part 2: Mastering Technical Design Sketches

Part 3: Developing The Colorways Sheet

Part 4: Constructing a Graded Specification Sheet

Part 5: Building the Point of Measurement (POM)

Part 6: Crafting a Bill Of Materials (BOM)

Part 7: Assembling The Construction Details Page

Part 8: Forming the Renderings and Mockups Page

Part 9: Establishing the Labeling, Folding, and Packaging Information