Knits: Part 2—How to Source Quality Knit Fabric

Written by Tirsa Parrish and Kitty Hensley

Last updated March 30, 2026

The Theory Becomes Real

Behind every polished garment is a series of decisions—where the fabric is sourced, how it’s tested, and whether the sample reflects the designer’s vision. This phase isn’t flashy, but it is foundational.

 

Finding and evaluating suppliers is where the details matter most. This phase determines whether your garment performs the way you envisioned.

 

Sourcing isn’t just about finding a fabric you like. It’s about verifying that a supplier can deliver that fabric—repeatedly, reliably, and without surprises. But how do you find and evaluate fabric suppliers that are right for your brand?

Where Knit Fabric Comes From

Knit fabric comes from mills and distributors. Finding the right one takes time—but the investment pays off in consistency and reliability.

 

Sourcing knit fabric for a clothing line can take two paths. This infographic shows the traditional knit supply chain going from a yarn spinner to a knitting mill, to a finisher and/or dye house, to a distributor/jobber, who then sends it to the manufacturer. Also shown is the integrated system using a vertical mill, then a spinner/knitter/dyer/finisher before going to the manufacturer. Fabric sampling and apparel production should be done at several stages in either supply chain.

Two equally valid paths in the knit supply chain a brand may choose when manufacturing a garment.

 

Understanding these distinctions helps you navigate supplier conversations and set realistic timelines. Each step affects quality, consistency, and repeatability.

Stock Fabric vs. Custom Development

  • Stock fabric: Ready-made, available immediately, lower minimum order quantities (MOQs), limited customization

  • Custom development: Made to your specifications (color, weight, finish), higher MOQs, longer lead times

Most startups begin with stock fabrics and move to custom development as they scale.

Greige vs. Finished Fabric

  • Greige (gray goods): Unfinished fabric straight from the knitting mill—requires dyeing and finishing

  • Finished fabric: Ready to cut and sew

Understanding MOQs

Most suppliers have MOQs. Understanding these is crucial, not just for sampling, but for planning future production. 

 

Every supplier is different, but typical ranges are:

  • Stock fabrics: 1-10 yards for sampling, 50-100 yards for production

  • Custom fabric: 500-3,000 yards

Where to Find Knit Fabric Resources

A good supplier is not only selling knit fabric—they are providing information. They recommend applications and advise on performance. Fabric quality is the priority, but location, services, and communication matter too.

Small-batch friendly suppliers: 

 

A table of small-batch friendly knit suppliers listed on Fashion Index. All suppliers listed are located in the United States and specialize in knit fabric. The table gives information about each business and what brand needs they best fulfill. The Fashion Index supplier page allows brands to sort through suppliers with various filters including sustainability, location, and MOQs so your brand has the best information when sourcing knit fabric for clothing line.

US-based knit suppliers on Fashion Index will help your brand when sourcing knit fabric for a clothing line.

 

Contact these suppliers, schedule a visit if possible, and ask questions. The right fit depends on your specific needs.

 

Fashion Index Tip: To search for suppliers on Fashion Index, filter your search by Knit Fabrics 

 

Evaluating textile quality in apparel doesn’t just happen when a finished garment is in the hands of a retail buyer. Every step in the knit supply chain offered ways for brands to make sure the material they are considering is right for their garment and their brand. This large textile finishing machine is the last step before bulk material orders are sent to the manufacturers for cut and sewn. Understanding this process is key to sourcing knit fabric for a clothing line.

Knit fabric finishing can involve a series of treatments that are used to improve the appearance, feel, and performance of knitted fabrics. Image via textilelearner.net

Evaluating Supplier Compatibility and Knit Quality

Quality knit can’t be determined by price, fiber content, or its online appearance alone. The material must be physically evaluated. Knit fabric approval is a technical decision, not just a visual decision. 

 

Questions to ask before sampling:

  • MOQs for sampling vs. production

  • Lead time for stock vs custom

  • Test reports or certifications

  • Reorder capability

Here are some things to keep in mind:

 

Green Flags: Transparent, willing to send samples, provides documentation, and responsive communication.

 

Red Flags: Vague information, won’t sample, pushy about bulk ordering, and no reorder capacity.

 

Whenever possible, visit your supplier's showroom and/or manufacturing facility.

 

Quick DIY testing allows you to examine its recovery, dimensional stability, shrinkage risk, opacity, pilling tendency, torqueing/skewing, and hand feel. We uncover key identifiers of what makes high-quality fabric more in part four of our knit series. 

Certifications: What to Look For

We covered certifications in depth in Sustainability Throughout the Supply Chain: Creating a Greener Future in Fashion. Here’s what’s new and what matters specifically for knits:

 

OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is a globally recognized certification verifying that textiles have been tested for over 1,000 harmful substances. As of 2025, it covers every component, from fabric to threads and buttons, with stricter criteria for products with direct skin contact. 

 

This testing is especially important for knits because they sit close to the body and retain heat. A higher temperature has a higher potential for chemical transfer from the textile to the skin.

 

A 2025 Textile Exchange Materials Market Report found that only 34% of global cotton production currently comes from certified sources. Learning how to evaluate fabric suppliers includes understanding your company’s need for sustainable and eco-friendly fabrics and processes, including organic farming practices.

Sampling Basics 

Sampling is a risk-prevention process. It catches errors—incorrect stretch, unexpected shrinkage, color problems—before they become production waste.

Sample types through the production process

There are several fabric samples you may request depending on your needs and stage in the production process.  A swatch or header card is a small piece of the fabric, usually 2–8 inches, sent by a mill or supplier. This helps you verify fabric basics and stock colors. Once the fabric is approved, sample yardage, 1-10 yards, is ordered for testing to confirm the fabric will work as expected for your garment. Finally, pre-production yardage is obtained before bulk manufacturing begins. 

 

Budget your samples by type, including shipping. Swatches tend to be free, but in some cases can be $5-25. Sample yardage is typically 1.5-2 times the cost for bulk fabric per yard, including freight on board (FOB) fees. 

 

For custom colors or prints, additional approvals are required. Two-color submissions are lab dips and strike-offs. Lab dips are samples dyed to match a specific color standard. Strike-offs are sample prints of a fabric design to check colors, pattern repeat, and quality before full production. Never approve bulk orders without seeing lab dips or physical strike-offs. 

 

Pay close attention to GSM while sampling. Weight directly affects drape, opacity, seasonality, and durability (heavier weights often provide more resilience). Understanding these variables ensures that the fabric you approve not only looks right—but performs exactly as intended.

 

Fabric sampling for apparel production is exciting, but patience is essential. Plan 3–6 months, depending on mill location, from first sample to bulk fabric delivery—longer for custom development.

What's Next?

Once you know how to evaluate structure, weight, and supplier capability, you begin to see what’s truly possible. Material selection becomes strategic. You can choose knits that enhance athletic performance, support sustainability goals, improve durability, or elevate comfort in measurable ways.

 

Part 3 of this series moves into that expanded landscape—exploring what happens when material knowledge turns into material advantage. From advanced performance knits to sustainable fiber innovations and emerging textile technologies, we’ll look at how the next generation of knit fabrics is redefining what apparel can do.

 

Download Fabric Supplier Checklist—your step-by-step guide from first contact to production approval.

Related articles: 

Knits: Part 1—Why Fabric Construction Comes Before Design

Knits: Part 3—Innovation: Reimagining What a Knit Can Be

Knits: Part 4—Evaluating Knit Fabric Performance: From Feel to Proof

A Beginner's Guide to Stitch Types: The Most Common Stitches and Uses in Garment Making
Thread Characteristics: From Fibers to Finishes